The Route
In crossing the Penwith Peninsula from coast to coast the St Michael’s Way covers a variety of topography characteristic of this ancient landscape and passes some notable heritage features and buildings. It makes a rewarding day’s walk and on a clear day the views are glorious.
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Starting in Lelant by St Uny Church the Way begins by following the South-west coast path to Carbis Bay. There are sweeping views across St Ives Bay from Godrevy Island to the north-east topped by its lighthouse, inspiration for Virginia Woolf’s novel ‘To the Lighthouse’, to St Ives in the west. From Carbis Bay the route turns inland to arrive at Knill’s Monument from where there are splendid views of coast and countryside. The route continues inland along minor roads and tracks passing the Beersheba Stone, a Bronze Age menhir, to arrive at Bowl Rock. Legend says that this enormous granite rock arrived here as a result of a bowling match between two giants.
Then it’s only a short walk across to Trencrom Hill. The Way skirts around the base of the hill but when visibility is good it’s worth taking a detour to the top for the superb coast to coast panoramic view. The path continues along a minor road to the hamlet of Ninnes Bridge and then it’s fairly level walking over a series of fields across Trembethlow Farm. The landscape changes character as the Way crosses a succession of three narrow, stream-bottomed parallel valleys with steeply sloping descents and ascents to reach Ludgvan Churchtown.
From Ludgvan there is a choice of two routes to St Michael’s Mount. The first is more direct running through fields and then the RSPB’s reserve at Marazion Marsh. The other takes a westerly direction, inland but parallel to the coast, skirting Tremenheere Sculpture Gardens and Gulval and then turns back eastwards via Longrock along the coast path to Marazion and the Mount. Taken together these two alternative routes become a pleasant, mainly level, circular walk with various starting points and several convenient venues for refreshments stops.
If starting from St Ives it is possible to take the coast path to Carbis Bay and join the Way there.
Practicalities
Finding the Way
The route is well signposted using a stylised shell based on the Council of Europe’s sign for pilgrim routes.
Nevertheless walkers are advised to carry a copy of the printed OS Explorer Map 102 Land’s End or the smart phone version with them. The route is clearly marked on the map.
Friends of St Michael’s Way publish an illustrated guide with clear directions, ‘St Michael’s Way: a Guide to the Walk‘.
Level of difficulty and conditions
The walk is not difficult though there are some steep sections and there are a number of granite stiles along the route. In places the path can be muddy and slippery especially in the valley floors and around field entrances where cattle have congregated so appropriate footwear should be worn and a walking pole can be useful. The cliff path leading to Carbis Bay may also be wet underfoot. Walkers are likely to encounter livestock at some point along the route so dogs should be kept under control.
Transport
Travelines (www.travelinesw.com) provides links to bus and rail timetables. The A17 bus service which runs between Penzance and St Ives stops in Lelant and trains stop at Leland station. There is limited parking near St Uny church in Lelant and several car parks in Marazion. Unfortunately there is no direct bus service between Marazion and Lelant though the A17 stops in Long Rock so it is possible to park in Marazion and walk to Long Rock. There is a direct service between Penzance and Marazion (U4). For details of timetables and routes see First Group Cornwall (www.firstgroup.com/cornwall).
If you wish to do the walk in sections or only walk part of the Way it is possible to do this using public transport. The A17 Penzance-St Ives bus stops in Long Lane at Ludgvan and in Carbis Bay as well as Lelant.
Note that if you take the bus to Lelant you will need to walk from the Lelant-St Ives road to the start of the walk. Ask for the Badger Inn which is on the junction of the main road and Church Road. Walk down Church Road to the start of the walk.
Crossing to the Mount
For information about crossing to the Mount either by the Causeway or boat depending on tide times and season see St Michael’s Mount (www.stmichaelsmount.org.uk)
Please note that although everyone can walk across the Causeway when the tide permits it is now usually not possible to go onto the Mount without a pre-booked ticket.
Refreshments
Depending on the time of day and season refreshments are available at Carbis Bay, in at the White Hart Inn (www.whitehartludgvan.co.uk) in Ludgvan, at Tremenheere Sculpture Gardens (www.tremenheere.co.uk), in Marazion and on the Mount (www.stmichaelsmount.co.uk). The route also passes close by supermarkets in Carbis Bay and Long Rock.